Why Certain Ingredients Never Made It Into Rika

When I formulated Rika, I didn't start with a list of ingredients to avoid. I started with a different question:

What would I feel comfortable recommending to one of my own patients whose skin was already under significant stress?

Radiation therapy changes the skin's barrier, making it more vulnerable to irritation, dryness, and friction. That doesn't automatically make every commonly used cosmetic ingredient harmful. Many ingredients have long histories of safe use and remain appropriate in a wide variety of skincare products.

But Rika wasn't created for the average skincare routine.

It was formulated specifically for skin that's already working hard to heal. That meant making thoughtful choices—not only about what to include, but also about what to leave out.

Here are some of the ingredients you'll never find in our formulas—and why.

Parabens

Parabens have been used as cosmetic preservatives for decades.

Although regulatory agencies consider the levels permitted in cosmetics to be safe, questions about their estrogen-like activity have led many companies—including ours—to choose alternative preservation systems.

For Rika, I decided to take a different approach.

Phthalates

Certain phthalates have raised concerns because of their potential effects on hormone function.

Although cosmetic use has become increasingly restricted, they're still most commonly encountered through synthetic fragrance mixtures.

Because ingredient transparency matters to us, we chose not to include them.

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is an effective preservative that's widely used, including in many products marketed as 'clean.' Although it's considered safe at approved concentrations, some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation. Because our formulas are designed for skin that's often already stressed, I chose a different preservation system.

Instead, Rika uses PhytoCide Elderberry OS, an ECOCERT/COSMOS-approved preservation system that aligns with our formulation philosophy.

Disodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA helps stabilize cosmetic formulations but doesn't readily biodegrade.

Environmental impact was one of many considerations during formulation, so we chose alternative ingredients that better align with our environmental goals.

PEG Derivatives

PEGs (polyethylene glycol derivatives) are commonly used as emulsifiers and texture enhancers.

Modern manufacturing includes purification processes designed to minimize potential contaminants such as 1,4-dioxane. Rather than relying on PEG-based ingredients, we chose alternative emulsifiers that better fit the simplicity of our formulations.

Synthetic Fragrance

Fragrance is one of the most common causes of cosmetic contact allergy.

Because our products are designed for skin that's often already irritated or compromised, every Rika formula is completely fragrance-free.

If you notice a scent, it comes naturally from the botanical ingredients themselves—not from added perfume.

Sulfates (SLS/SLES)

Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are effective cleansing agents, but they can also remove natural oils from the skin.

For healthy skin, that isn't necessarily a problem.

For skin that's already dry or compromised by radiation treatment, I wanted cleansing ingredients that are gentler on the skin barrier.

Petrolatum, Mineral Oil & Paraffin

These ingredients are highly effective occlusive moisturizers that help reduce water loss from the skin.

For Rika, I chose plant-derived oils and butters instead because they also provide naturally occurring fatty acids and plant compounds that complement the overall formulation philosophy behind these products.

Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives

Certain preservatives slowly release very small amounts of formaldehyde over time to prevent microbial growth.

Although they're permitted in many cosmetic products, formaldehyde is also a well-recognized contact allergen for some individuals.

Because our goal was to minimize potential sources of irritation whenever practical, we chose not to use formaldehyde-releasing preservatives.

Synthetic Colorants

Artificial dyes don't contribute to how well a skincare product performs.

Our focus is on function, not appearance, so we don't add synthetic colorants to our formulas.

The color you see comes naturally from the ingredients themselves.

Our Formulation Philosophy

Every ingredient in Rika was chosen deliberately.

Just as importantly, every ingredient that was left out was left out for a reason.

The goal was never to create the longest 'free-from' list or suggest that other products are unsafe. It was to formulate products I would feel comfortable recommending to my own patients—products built around thoughtful ingredients, transparency, and respect for skin that's already under enough stress.